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Indeed it is! I believe this is a sign of good things to come in terms of future cameras. 😃

@@JeremySmithPhotography I take it that if the Sony a1 & a9III don't autofocus in low light as good as the Z6III, my guess is that the Sony a7IV won't autofocus that well in low light either?

This video isn’t about being able to see an accurate representation of the exposure (exposure simulation). It’s about how the camera does focus tracking at small apertures in low light. If you turn off exposure simulation on a Nikon, Sony, or Fuji mirrorless camera the aperture will remain wide open like on a DSLR… but ONLY if you are using AF-S (SINGLE SERVO) focus. That’s not what this video is about… here we are specifically speaking about how the Z6III is able to do focus TRACKING in low light at small apertures. Focus tracking means we aren’t using AF-S, we are using AF-C (CONTINUOUS) focus. When using AF-C with exposure simulation turned off Nikon, Sony, and Fuji mirrorless cameras DO NOT remain at a wide aperture like a DSLR, they stop down just as shown here. This is why those of us who are experienced know this issue very well and understand just how big a leap forward the Z6III is in this area. 😉

Thanks for the love! Maybe it’s time for some co-ops 😃

@@JeremySmithPhotography yeahh, it would be amazing

The Z6iii functions the same as your old camera.

@@livejames9374 The biggest difference is that despite maintaining f/5.6 an older camera like the Z6II will struggle under these conditions... interestingly enough so does the Z8 and Z9. I feel a follow-up video coming. 😃

Canon's Dual Pixel CMOS AF tech is interesting and works differently than every other manufacturer. While Canon hasn't been too keen on elaborating on many details one thing I know is that Canon's don't exhibit the same aperture change before capture discussed here. One thing is obvious; all the camera manufacturers are working to improve this aspect of mirrorless cameras. I totally agree, the settings used here are are for demonstration purposes a "torture test" of sorts. In real-world shooting I too try to shoot at wider focal lengths to help maximize DOF without having to stop down as far. Notice my settings on the real-world photo at 1:23... 1/80th at F/5.6, ISO 4000, and 21mm. 😃

Interesting, I will test more. 😃 In my testing other Z cameras struggle just as much or more than the Sony's I compared to in this test (including the Z8 and Z9).

@@JeremySmithPhotography Yeah that is interesting - Nikon may have added additional tech in addition to the 5.6 stop down maximum for this camera - either way Nikon is killing it!

I plan on selling my z6 II next year and buying this camera. I may have another wedding to pay for next year so it depends on a lot of different things. I have the z8 so it's not like I really have to have the z6 III. I just want it. From my understanding, it has a dual gain ISO. From 100 to 800 it prioritizes for dynamic range because the noise isn't really that bad. Nothing that software can't clear up easily. From 800 on up it prioritizes the noise to keep it lower. I think that's because it's not a bsi sensor. Sometimes I shoot milky way photos at ISO 6400 so I do want to see some tests at that range. I'll be watching for some of the RUclipsrs to put out videos testing it out at night. I do like the flip out screen. I have one on my Canon T6s. It comes in handy when you are in a place where you can't stand behind the camera. I've set up right beside a creek where there was a steep drop off of at least 5 feet. There was no place to stand. I just flipped the screen out so I could see it. It works great for when you have to set the camera down low or in the corner of a room. I wish it had a screen like Sony has that works both ways. Combine the one from the z8 with the one on the z6 III. Best of both. But they're trying to keep the price down.

I haven't tested with flash much but from my initial tests the camera still did just as well with flash as it did in this test. 😃

The Z6 is quite a step down compared to the Sony A1/A9III benchmarks I used in this test and the Z6III is better still. Long story short you will see a HUGE difference!

Thank you!

*Goggle searches*, *squints eyes*, *asks mom*... I think it's just the mustache and eyebrows lol.

The key here is to pay close attention to the exposure settings used, keep in mind what you are seeing during the test is a screen recording from the camera. At 5:04 I show what kind of exposure you would get under "more favorable" (brighter) lighting conditions. At 5:36 that darker result is not because of an exposure change. Notice that I did not change camera settings; we stay at ISO 800, F/4, 1/60th. When I say "first of all lets make it properly dark in here" I turn off the main light to simulate extreme low-light conditions. This is to illustrate just how dark the subject became relative to where we started. Again; we are still at the same settings and we are 3+ stops underexposed. While things are still 3+ stops underexposed I make things even worse by stopping down to F/8 (since how the camera focuses when stopped down is the topic of this video). To compensate for the change in aperture AND the ambient light being reduced the ISO is raised to 64,000. Under the test conditions 1/60th and F/8 at ISO 64,000 ISO would be the same exposure as 1/60th and F/2.8 at ISO 8,000, or 1/60th and F/2 at ISO 4,000. If translated to settings I would actually use during an event we arrive at 1/250th and F/1.4 at ISO 8,000. Put simply, despite the scene appearing bright for the sake of this video presentation it was properly dark. 😃

@@JeremySmithPhotography Thank you. I am a beginner enthusiast photographer and just learning. I appreciate your time to educate me. I have a Z6ii and still learning how to use it. Do you think I should upgrade to Z6iii if money is not an issue, or something else?

Thank you sir 😃

That was my first thought too, to my surprise it isn't simulating! Note my title at 2:39; I will continue to investigate... I want to know how Nikon did it. I am impressed! 😃

That’s not how Nikon cameras work

360 cameo FTW 😃

Definitively! And a bit less $$ too. 😃

On the A7III generation of cameras Sony called tracking "lock-on". 😃

Hello! This is a very good question and it's something I actually plan to make a more detailed video about in the future... while bokeh specifically refers to the look of the out of focus parts of an image I assume you are thinking of getting a more blurred background (shallower depth of field). Depth of field is affected by three things; aperture, focal length, and subject distance. A wider aperture, longer focal length, or closer subject distance all result in shallower DOF. The reason we see shallower DOF on full-frame is because at a given subject distance we are able to use a longer focal length to attain the same framing. If we use a longer focal length lens on an APS-C camera we have to back up from our subject to keep the frame the same which in turn creates deeper DOF (less blurred background)... remember further subject distance means deeper DOF. As far as "compression" is concerned; you are right, you will see more of this effect with the 85mm lens on an APS-C camera. "Compression" as it's often called is really due to a change in perspective, anytime the photographer is further from the subject it will create the illusion that the background is closer to the subject or more "compressed". Keep in mind though this does not make DOF shallower... Short answer: If you back up from the subject to maintain the same framing on the APS-C cam the background will appear closer to the subject than it would on FF but won't be as blurred. This is of course assuming that you are shooting at the same aperture on both cameras. 😃 ruclips.net/video/7cjAj2ckMVM/видео.html

The 70-200 VR II is a great lens but the new one is certainly a big upgrade, you will no doubt enjoy it! The A/M is definitely safer to use if you want to avoid accidentally bumping the focus ring. I noticed that in this mode the focus ring requires a much more deliberate turn to get the lens to respond. Possibly, it certainly lowers the center of gravity which helps with tripod stability. When shooting handheld I always remove the tripod foot regardless of which 70-200 I am using.

@@JeremySmithPhotography Thanks. I bought it and have been using it. This E, FL lens is better in many ways: sharper, better contrast, quicker to zoom, focuses closer, no breathing, and it's lighter. I'm using it with the tripod foot on, to avoid bumping the focus ring. I maybe also use it without the tripod foot, and just put a small piece of gaffer tape on the focus ring. All in all it's worth it to have the latest version. I wish Nikon would update DSLR lenses and make new ones. They've abandoned DSLR users in that sense.

@@Jazz16-we1qc One of the best things about this lens is that it adapts to mirrorless very well also. Nikon really did give everyone a good... what I like to call... "bridge to the future" when they designed the FTZ adapter. Going forward there is no way Nikon (or any other camera company for that matter) could compete with the latest mirrorless systems using older DSLR tech. One of the reasons why the content of this video was never expanded on is because I switched to mirrorless about a year after this video and haven't touched a DSLR for any of my work since. Perhaps a comparison between this lens and it's newer 70-200 f/2.8 S sibling is in order. 😃

@@JeremySmithPhotography Thanks. Bonus that it adapts to mirrorless well, in case I get a mirrorless camera one day. I paid $1896 new from B$H for it several weeks ago. My other lenses are 1.8 primes in 20, 35, 50, and 85mm. How do those primes take to the FTP adapter? --- also, when they gonna figure out...there's still mirrors in life, baby. mama don't take my mirror away.

@@JeremySmithPhotography little strip of gaffers tape on the focus ring, along with the A/M position. Sometimes I use it with the foot, and it's a better feel that way really, except when switch to vertical it sucks.

Thanks for the subscription! The limit switch on that lens works a bit differently, if memory serves correct when you switch it to limit it will hold the focus in the range where you currently have the lens focused. For example if you are focused between Infinity and 0.38m and go to limit it will stay in that range... if you are focused between 0.36 and 0.3m and select limit it will hold focus in that range.

Nell is awesome! 😃

I am glad that I was able to help!

I might post a separate video about this in the future... first of all the variable shutter option isn't new, it's been around since the A9II. The only difference is that the A7RV can automatically set the variable shutter speed based on the frequency of the light source. On older camera models like the A9II this had to be dialed in manually. Variable shutter speed is used for higher frequency light sources such as LED's whereas the anti-flicker shoot is used for lower frequency light sources such as fluorescence. Variable shutter speed setting or not you will get banding in silent mode with the A7RV when shooting at higher shutter speeds due to the slower readout speed of the sensor.

The new Sigma lenses are awesome too! I have been looking forward to testing the new Sigma 50mm f/1.2 DG DN and comparing it to the 50mm f/1.4 GM.

I need that little splash of color. 🎨 😃

You are very welcome! I am glad I was able to help! 😃

You are very welcome! 🙂

The A9II has a stacked sensor so it gets most of the advantages of the A1, however since it's an earlier design the readout speed isn't quite as fast. You will still see a HUGE improvement in silent shooting performance over the A7IV and A7RV though. The biggest difference (in terms of silent shooting) with the A9II is that you can't use flash in silent shooting mode nor can you use the anti-flicker setting.

@@JeremySmithPhotography Thanks. Sounds like an A1 will be my next camera purchase, maybe after the release of a MkII version drives down prices on used Mk1s.

Thank you! 😃

Thank you 😃

You are very welcome! God bless to you as well. 😃

@@JeremySmithPhotography Thank you so much Jeremy!

Good news is with more people going to the new mirrorless systems there are a LOT of these on the used market. In excellent condition they are going for around $1,300 USD from reputable vendors.